In Shackleton’s Shadow

As the mist cleared we caught our first glimpse of South Georgia. The 9,000 ft mountains rose suddenly from the sea, interspersed with glaciers which extended into the water. At about 1.30pm we spotted our first ice berg which was about the size of the ship. As we approached land we were guided in by numerous fur seals, keen to show us the way with elegant dives in and out of the water. Finally we dropped anchor in Fortuna Bay and the call went out to prepare for landing. Hurriedly we layered up for the cold weather and boarded the zodiacs which took us to shore. Filing past the fur seals on the beach we spotted an Elephant Seal about 20 metres away. Weighing over 3.5 tones it lacked the ability to bend its rear flippers, so that once on land it slowly drags itself onshore whilst its fur seal neighbours (which it dwarfs) scamper up and down the beach at a nimble pace. Its size was difficult to comprehend. Scrambling through the tussock we carefully avoiding the nesting Giant Petrels before heading over the shale and up to Crean Lake. The hike we were taking across South Georgia was the final stage of Shackleton’s epic crossing which he completed in 1916 after two years of being stranded in Antarctica and rowing to South Georgia. Crean Lake was named after Crean, one of Shackleton’s party, fell in it during their crossing. Above the lake our hike continued up over the snow and across the pass. From the top we could see the remains of the abandoned Stromness Whaling Station in the distance. Descending down the steep incline and past the Shackelton falls we hiked out of the valley and onto the beach. The fur seals and king penguins ignored our arrival; continuing to fight, growl, and grunt whilst we boarded zodaics to take us back to the ship.