Paradise Bay

Woken by Al at quarter to five we had managed to grab just a few hours sleep. The sun was already high in the sky as we layered up and undertook the familiar obstacle course; climbing down the small rope ladder at the back of the ship, across the zodiac and sliding into our kayak. We had anchored in Paradise Bay in front of the remains of Almirante Brown Base on the edge of the continental mainland. The base had been burnt down in 1982 by the station’s leader who didn’t want to stay another winter. The Argentinean flag was painted on the roofs of the small huts, but a colony of Gentoos were now its only inhabitants. As we paddled through the bay and around the icebergs we broke through the layer of surface ice, creaking and cracking and as we forced our way through. 

On the mainland

The only other sounds in the bay were the huge crashes from the avalanches of built snow precariously overhanging the ice and the squawking of the various Gentoo colonies. After a rest stop we navigated our way around the ice crammed into the bay, and headed back to the ship. The landscape changed dramatically we travelled up to the Melchior Islands. The packed ice flow and icebergs of every size gave way to larger stretches of open water with icebergs the size of the ship. The dramatic mountains of the peninsular were replaced with smaller hills, still covered in snow and ice. We got our kayaks ready for their final trip. Paddling across the open water we circled several of the smaller islands. The swell and surf took some getting used too after the glassy conditions we had been lucky enough to enjoy on our past few outings. Somewhat reluctantly we paddled back to the ship, sponged out our kayaks and hung up our dry suits. As the ship pulled up its anchor and set off for the long voyage across the Drake Passage we watched the final ice covered peaks disappear as we said goodbye to Antarctica.

Base A

The British Antarctic Base built in the 1940’s at Port Lockroy was known simply as Base A. As we got back into our drysuits again we paddled across to Base A from the ship and pulled up in the middle of a colony of Gentoo Peguins. Climbing up the slope and across the deep packed snow of the ‘Penguin Highway’ we looked around the base, parts of which had been carefully restored to their operating days in the 1940’s and 50’s. Staff at the base operate a small shop and mailbox from which we could sent our postcards – approximate delivery time 4 – 6 months! 

From the base we kayaked around the ice again and past another Gentoo colony and nesting blue-eyed Cormorants, sitting on their eggs. Returning to the ship we had ice cream cones and hot chocolate on the deck as we watched the sun setting near midnight. The beautiful appearance of pink ice coloured the landscape as we continued to the Lemaire Channel, our furthest point south.

Kayaking in the Ice

Kayaking around Enterprise Island

An amazing day! We awoke early to clear blue skies, bright sunshine and the glaciers and peaks of the Gerlache Strait surrounding us. After dropping anchor in Wilhelmina bay we dressed into our dry suits and climbed into our kayaks. The bay was full of icebergs and pack ice. Gazing into the depths of the crystal clear water we could see the incredible size of the icebergs beneath. Eagerly we began paddling through this surreal landscape. Our passage through the ice took us around the neighbouring Enterprise Island. We passed the occasional penguin, drifting on an iceberg as well some Crabeater Seals, baking in the sun.

Cruising up the Neumayer Channel

Paddling around the huge icebergs and ploughing over some of the smaller ones took us to a rocky area on the edge of the Island, where we hauled up our kayaks and reenergized with tea and chocolate. Continuing our kayaking around Enterprise Island we ran into pack ice which blocked path ahead so we began a fast paddle back around to make it to the ship in time for lunch. As we ate on the deck of the ship enjoying the sunshine, we travelled across the Gerlache Strait and into the Neumayer Channel with its beautiful glaciers and ice cliffs. Pods of Orcas escorted us through the Channel as well as several Minke whales.

Reaching Antarctica

A yawning Elephant Seal

An Adelie Penguin

Finally after what seemed like an eternity at sea, we made it to Antarctica. Navigating through the South Shetland Islands and around the Ice covered peaks of King George Island, where many of the Antarctic research stations are based; we landed at the appropriately named Penguin Island. Once again the wind and waves provided too much for our kayaking plans, so we jumped into a zodiac and bounced across the surf to the rocky beach. Welcomed by our first sighting of Weddell Seals we managed to avoid the huge Elephant Seals and solitary fur seal as we hiked across the snow to the Chinstrap Penguin colony. We spent several hours watching the Penguins (including some Gentoo and Adelie) as they returned from their big swim and waddled across the snow up to their nests. Oblivious of our company they shuffled along past us often less than a metre away. To transverse slopes they would flip onto their front and gracefully slide down, before standing upright once more and shuffling across the snow. The Elephant Seals had a larger problem, occasionally finding that their huge mass would lead them to unexpectedly slide down the slope causing frantic self correction using their front flippers. From Penguin Island we continued south through to the Peninsula.

Returning to Sea

After spending almost a day in a category eight storm the trip down from South Georgia has been far from smooth. Waves over eight metres came crashing down on the deck as objects flew out of drawers and across the cabin. The heavy swells slowed our journey south as our speed stalled to just four knots. For sometime the ship had to travel towards Australia to avoid damage in the storm. Meal times became an exercise in balance and grip as we made our way across the ship to the dining room hanging on with two hands as we went; then attempting to eat and drink normally as the ship rocked heavily. After the storm slowed and passed we picked up speed as we approached the Antarctic Peninsula. 

Gentoo Penguins swimming in front of the ship

Our whale spotting activities from the deck and the bridge were rewarded with sightings of Fin, Sei, Minke and Humpback during the voyage. The shadow of Elephant Island appeared on the horizon as night approached, our next landing will be in Antarctica tomorrow. 

Cooper Bay

A Macaroni Penguin

Our last day of landings in South Georgia was meant to be a busy one. In morning we pulled into Gold Harbour on the south east side of the island. Hoping to get out for a paddle or at least a landing by zodiac, the strong winds didn’t help and we had to move along to coast to plan B, Cooper Bay. With winds still too strong for kayaking we did at least manage to get out by zodiac and close to the fourth type of Penguin we had seen so far, the Macaroni. With their striking yellow haircut they were busy nesting in their colony on the steep slopes overlooking the bay. Further cruising along the shoreline Giant Petrels swooped along side us and Elephant Seals growled at us from the beach. After an engine alarm sounded in our zodiac we had to make an early return through the choppy waters and back to the ship. In the afternoon we powered up the dramatic Drygalski Fjord facing its katabatic winds and spectacular kilometre high cliffs, sheltering the Snow Petrels. 

Drygalski Fjord

The huge glaciers all around us plunged into ocean whilst the melting ice created waterfalls that with the gale force winds appeared to be raising rather than falling. From here we set off south west for the long trip down to Antarctica. 

A Giant Petrel takes off

Whaling Station

An Elephant Seal Pup

The following day we arrived in Grytviken, the largest settlement on South Georgia which has a resident population of 4, but with the British Antarctic Survey huts can accommodate 18. The sea was calm and the water a brilliant turquoise. We layered up, put on our dry suit and pogies (large paddling gloves) and headed out to the back deck ready for our first kayak of the trip. After climbing down a rope ladder from the ship and across a zodiac we slid into our kayak and started paddling. There are 39 passengers on the Polar Pioneer and almost as many crew. The Kayaking group totalled 9 including ourselves, so we had 4 doubles and a single. Our group leader Al took us off across the bay and around King Edward Point. We avoided the fur seals and penguins and headed around the coast. At one point we had clearly invaded the territory of a rather possessive Elephant Seal, so Nicole and I paddled swiftly whilst the seal (about the same size as two Land Rovers) came up behind us, remaining just a metre or two off the back of the kayak for sometime. 



We had a calmer paddle back to Grytviken and pulled up onshore to wander around the rusty remains of the whaling station, where thousands of whales and seals were processed into oil. The huge storage tanks for the oil were still in place as were many of the remains of the processing plant. We wandered around the small museum, the Norwegian Church and up on the hill to Shackleton’s grave, which overlooked the bay, before paddling back to Ship. In the afternoon we headed for Godthul a large bay about two hours south of Grytviken. We went out for our second paddle of the day and around the bay where the curious fur seal pups came out to play in the water jumping and diving around us, occasionally knocking the bottom of the kayak. After a stop for some hot chocolate the angry older fur seals on land didn’t want to let us past, so we warmed ourselves poised on the rocks at the waters edge. More King Penguins, Gentoos and Albatrosses passed us by as it grew late and we paddled home back across the bay.

Salisbury Plain

Dropping anchor in the Bay of Isles our first stop of the day was Salisbury Plain. We were greeted to similar weather conditions as its English namesake with the wind growing stronger and the sleet clouding visibility. There the similarity ended. As we jumped out of the zodics and out onto the beach, hundreds of king penguins clustered in around us. The baron landscape was dotted with fur seals as far as could be seen. We made our way across the plains trying to avoid the fur seals. Every so often one would consider us to be trespassing and we would pick up the pace as a brief chase ensued. Once across boggy creeks we arrived at the King Penguin colony. Over 60,000 penguins huddled together in the shelter of the tussock covered hills. The brown fluffy chicks were calling out for food and the downy chicks (over 12 months old now) were picking out the last of their baby feathers. As we stood there busily snapping with the camera, the penguins wandered about oblivious to their visitors. As the horizontal sleet died down and the sun came out the wind picked up giving a wind chill of -15C. We struggled back across the plain towards the beach. As the katabatic winds exceeded 100 km/ph we hunkered down in the sand before be selected as guinea pigs to make the first trip back. Soaked through to the skin as the zodiac bounced across the waves we arrived back at the ship. Unfortunately the crossing wasn’t considered safe, so the rest of the group endured a 3 hour wait, huddled on the beach.

In Shackleton’s Shadow

As the mist cleared we caught our first glimpse of South Georgia. The 9,000 ft mountains rose suddenly from the sea, interspersed with glaciers which extended into the water. At about 1.30pm we spotted our first ice berg which was about the size of the ship. As we approached land we were guided in by numerous fur seals, keen to show us the way with elegant dives in and out of the water. Finally we dropped anchor in Fortuna Bay and the call went out to prepare for landing. Hurriedly we layered up for the cold weather and boarded the zodiacs which took us to shore. Filing past the fur seals on the beach we spotted an Elephant Seal about 20 metres away. Weighing over 3.5 tones it lacked the ability to bend its rear flippers, so that once on land it slowly drags itself onshore whilst its fur seal neighbours (which it dwarfs) scamper up and down the beach at a nimble pace. Its size was difficult to comprehend. Scrambling through the tussock we carefully avoiding the nesting Giant Petrels before heading over the shale and up to Crean Lake. The hike we were taking across South Georgia was the final stage of Shackleton’s epic crossing which he completed in 1916 after two years of being stranded in Antarctica and rowing to South Georgia. Crean Lake was named after Crean, one of Shackleton’s party, fell in it during their crossing. Above the lake our hike continued up over the snow and across the pass. From the top we could see the remains of the abandoned Stromness Whaling Station in the distance. Descending down the steep incline and past the Shackelton falls we hiked out of the valley and onto the beach. The fur seals and king penguins ignored our arrival; continuing to fight, growl, and grunt whilst we boarded zodaics to take us back to the ship.

At Sea

Humpback dives into the deep

For the past two days we have been at sea, rocking and rolling our way across the Southern Ocean. The eight hundred mile voyage has taken us across the Antarctic convergence where the ocean dives in temperature and past the tiny ‘Shag Rocks.’ It took us some time and several doses of seas sickness meds for us to find our sea legs. Onboard ship we had lectures on Antarctic history, photography and wildlife by several authors and seasoned Antarctic experts. By the second day at sea the wind had calmed and fog cleared. We ventured out on deck to see a pair of Humpback whales surface and then flip their tails high into the air before descending into the deep. Fur seals also swam along side the ship along with Albatross’s circling high above. Now we are on the approach to South Georgia which is hidden in fog, King Penguins have started to appear swimming along the side of the ship.  We should make landing later this afternoon.

Falkland Islands

After stops in Southern Chile and Argentina, we finally arrived in the Falkland Islands. The airport is a British Military Base on the southern side of the East Falkland Island. From there we made our way across the barren landscape dotted with grazing sheep, past stone runs and landmines to Stanley, about an hour on the partially sealed roads. Stanley is a City (it has its own Cathedral) of less than 3,000 people. With it’s red telephone boxes, rows of cottages and union jacks flying it has the character of a small English village which time has forgotten for the past 40 years. The smell of burning peat, used by locals to fuel their homes drifts through the town. We had a tour of the city sights which included some 100 year old ship wrecks and a memorial to the 1982 war. The following day we headed off-road to Bluff Cove, about 40 minutes from Stanley to get our first sighting of Happy Feet. We watched hundred’s of Gentoo Penguins carefully sitting on their eggs. Every so often they would stand up and gently roll the egg with their feet to stop the inside of the egg sticking to it’s shell. We were also lucky enough to see half a dozen King Penguins and a couple of brown fluffy chicks. Whilst we enjoyed some local cakes and tea, some of the Gentoo’s began to waddle along the beach and dive into the surf. In the afternoon we headed out past the minefields to a local sheep farm where we helped to cut peat and watched the sheep being shorn. Looking out across the bay to St Lois a solitary King penguin had also decided to visit us at the farm. From there we crossed back across the Island and boarded our shop, the Polar Pioneer. As a beautiful sunset lit up the sky over Stanley we set off on the long voyage down to South Georgia.

Valparaíso

Set into the hills and looking out across the pacific, Valparaíso was our last stop in Chile. Arriving from Santiago we first headed to neighbouring Viña del Mar and the smaller town of Reñaca, where we dipped our toes into the ocean and tried the local Empanadas. After heading back into Valparaíso we explored Pablo Neruda’s quirky house and took our first ride on a funicular. Scattered throughout the city, each of the century old funiculars shudders and shakes its way up the hill helping to avoid the countless steps involved in navigating through the labyrinth of Valparaíso's narrow walkways.

Staying at a 19th century sprawling English house perched high up on the hillside we were treated to spectacular views out across the ocean and many of the city's hills. This seemed to compensate for the steep climb up the hill and the ten flights of stairs to reach our room. The following day we spent exploring the city, trying to capture some of its brightly coloured houses soak up its vibrant atmosphere whilst taking some time out to sample more of the city's Empanadas and local wine. Tomorrow we start our Antarctic adventure, as we head via Punta Arenas to Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands.

From Chardonnay to Carménère

‘Lunch is the wedding of food and wine’ our guide Patricia proclaimed as we headed out to the Casablanca Valley, about an hour out of Santiago. We were certainly looking forward to the wedding and the pre-wedding tastings. Patricia and Manuel were our guides on our private tour to some of Chile’s largest wine regions. Our first stop of the day was at the Emiliana Winery, an organic vineyard that proudly practiced the principles of biodynamic viticulture.  Chickens and peacocks roamed between the vines eating away at any fungus that could attack the grapes. Corridors of wildflowers were planted to attract bees who were also very good and repelling pests and making honey as a side product. There were also alpacas – which were I am sure were useful in some way too, but it was unclear how. Anyway, onto the wines. The Sav Blanc and Chardonnay were nice, but the Carménère is Chile’s signature grape and every winery creates a different blend with Cab Sav.  Emiliana had blended 85% Carménère and 15% Cab Sav which enjoyable but our preference was the 60% Cab Sab, 40% Carménère that we tried at our next stop. Indomita was an imposing castle like winery that sat on top of the hill and looked out across the valley. We were guided through their cellars which had lost many barrels due to the devastating Earthquake in 2010. By the time we made it to lunch, a delightful 4 course tasting menu with matched wines we had started to feel the effects of the morning’s work. A strong Pisco Sour, (Chile’s national drink) over lunch certainly didn’t help. From lunch we head to the San Antonio Valley and our last winery of the day where after a beautiful Pinot we were ready for a nap on the way home. We just had time for one last stop, to try a dulce de leche, meringue and cake filled with a caramelised centre – definitely something for the sweet tooth that revived us somewhat for the journey home!

 

Santiago

Nicole outside Catedral Metroploitana

Statue in Plaza de Armas

Arriving in Santiago it quickly became apparent that our non- existent Spanish might prove to be a problem. Wondering around on day one in a jet lag induced daze we pointed and made strange hand gestures and some how managed to obtain food, water and start to navigate around the city. With some key phrases such as ‘I am a vegetarian, what can you recommend?’ and ‘I would like some non-fizzy mineral water please?’ we soon found our way. Following some sleep, by the second day we had adopted our local metro station as our own and began an epic walking tour across the city and up on the funicular railway to the top of Cerro San Cristobal. Whist very welcome the 30 degree heat however isn't really helping with our Antarctica prep and the 0 degree day time temperature that will meet us in the Falkland Islands on Saturday.